There can be few more beautiful places in Ireland than Inis Meáin this morning. I am standing in warm sunlight on the top of Dún Chonchúir, an ancient pre-Christian fort. Like all forts, it was built to be defensive and it was positioned on a slight elevation right in the centre of this flat island so that the inhabitants could look out and see friends and foes alike coming and going in Galway Bay.
The fort is made up of tens of thousands of pieces of cut limestone neatly arranged on top of each other. It’s extraordinary to think this was built here 2,000 years ago. Dún Chonchúir was built in exactly the same way as the hundreds of stonewalls on this island which quite apart from dividing up the tiny holdings, offer the only protection from the winter Atlantic gales.
Geologically, the island is one giant criss-crossed limestone pavement. It is essentially a bit of the Burren sticking out of the Atlantic. Limestone is a soft rock and it breaks if you hit it hard enough with something harder. The neat stone slabs of the fort and every individual stone wall was made by dropping huge granite boulders, imported from Connemara, on hundreds of different limestone slabs.
Imagine the amount of sheer, back-breaking muscular effort that has gone into making this island habitable? Island life is hard, and anyone who has spent any amount of time on any island will know that living on an island is difficult.
As a tourist it is reasonably easy to romanticise island life. If you doubt this, read Synge’s ‘The Playboy of the Western World’. For example, the top of Dún Chonchúir offers the visitor a freeze frame of Ireland at its best.
From where I am standing, the whole of the Aran Islands, Connemara and the County Clare Coast opens up majestically before me. You should come here to reconfirm to yourself the spectacular isolated beauty of the edge of the Atlantic.
To my left lies Inis Mór, just across the sound and further out across to Connemara, Erris Beg at Roundstone juts up into the azure sky, behind it the corrugated peaks of the Twelve Bens frame the far side of a broad panorama which sweeps rightwards across Galway Bay and around to the Burren and Inis Oírr on my right, and then the Cliffs of Moher in the distance.
But the flipside of this rugged beauty is inaccessibility, remoteness and isolation. If these islands are to survive and thrive they need to be made less remote by being connected with a reliable, trusted transport system, one that the locals can depend on.
Without the preferred all-weather transport links the Aran Islands will become nothing more than an exotic destinations for summer day-trippers – a type of Irish-speaking safari park for the rest of us to have a gawk at every now and then.
Is that what we want?
In short, is the envisaged future more “selfie stick” than “camogie stick”? The move by the Government to replace the 40-year-old Aer Arann daily plane service with a helicopter service is likely to damage the island economy hugely. Not surprisingly, the locals are up in arms. They can’t understand why the service is being replaced. Most of the elderly, who depend on the plane, say they are scared to fly by helicopter. Whether there is any reality to this fear, the point is that is how they feel. They don’t want to fly to Galway Airport – to the east of the city when they were used to flying to Connemara miles to the west of the city, where their links are strongest.
Why not listen to the people? They know best about their own island, the weather, and they know what it is like to be cut off.
When we stand back, we can all appreciate that for the Aran Islanders to thrive, they have to make stuff that can bring “added value” to the locality, using the island’s brand which, ideally, provides all-year round employment.
One extraordinarily successful example of an indigenous business, which exports high quality goods all over the world is Inis Meáin Knitting Company (www.inismeain.ie) In its factory on the island, I saw boxes of jumpers earmarked for luxury shops in Toyko, New York and London.
The company uses the most sophisticated machinery, the most innovative designs, yet its story is one of ancient island tradition and its selling platform is the web. This company is not just a model for Inis Meáin but for all of rural Ireland.
The future for rural Ireland is small and medium-sized locally owned, businesses that make things for export. These businesses can leverage off the brand of Ireland – an image that is reinforced constantly by tourism.
Be they in food, whiskey, crafts or clothing these companies are selling more than a product, they are selling an experience. They are selling Ireland’s story to the buyer. The story is where the value lies. The experience is based on the brand and the brand occupies an emotional place deep in the brains of the buyer. This is the essential alchemy of small exporting businesses. These businesses project a rugged west of Ireland Atlantic experience to the high-end fashion world of Tokyo and New York.
Our tourist experience and our local produce are two sides of the same exporting coin. If we are really smart we should regard tourism as the marketing department of the fashion, food, craft and other local exporting businesses and vice versa.
This is sustainable development, and the Irish language, the music and the culture are all part of the brand. The brand moves potential buyers from “I like that” to “I am like that”. They become not just buyers but part of a tribe, part of a movement, part of the West of Ireland. That is the hard part.
Once you have done that the orders come in over the net. But of course here’s the snag, to get the actual produce out to the market, you need what? – reliable transport of course!
Amazingly, cutting the airplane service leaves the islands without a reliable export corridor, and in so doing may unravel the generations of work it took to build a sustainable business in one of the most beautiful, yet inhospitable places in the country.
The Aran Islands, like many remote places in rural Ireland, are a sensitive eco-system where one decision has far-reaching and often, unseen ramifications.
If only our bureaucrats who make these decisions could see that their rulings have knock-on effects which are impossible to quantify, and irreversible.
Would that be too much to ask?
subscribe
We are so far up the arse of the USA we may as well give them an Air Force base on the west coast. I’m sure they would throw in a PSO element to this kind gesture. With full ground and air support facilities on site the Arran Islands would never have to worry about commuting with the mainland again. Who knows in time it could become a “Gitmo” like arrangement if the price was right.
The more government is centralized the less it knows about the hinterland and the less responsive its policies to the rural area. Government is centered in the cities where the bulk of the population resides. The rural/urban divide has never been so acute. The same problem arises for a small nation governed by Europe from a foreign capital. Decentralized governance is the only solution for rural folk and likewise smaller nations in any federation. Ireland should leave the European Union and Dublin should disseminate the power to the regions or all place like the Aran Islands will be a form… Read more »
I went to Inis Môr this summer. Unfortunately I was a day-tripper and not staying on one of the islands but The Aran Islands and indeed the whole area are both enchanting and amazing. I’ve been living in France for 5 years now, aged 35 one of the Pope’s Children who was clever enough not to buy despite the pressure. As my wee lad just started school this Tuesday I reckon I’ll be in France for a lot longer yet. Moving away forces you to ponder your nationality and what it means but sadly the more I’m on the outside… Read more »
Maybe someone could do a modern “An Beal Bocht” for the Islanders and some of the “personalities” with holiday homes could wail into their pashmina shawls and Prada bags when they have to pay commercial prices for airfares. I’m certain Flann O’Brian would get serious mileage out of it if he was around today.
http://www.reuters.com/article/2015/09/01/europe-banks-tests-idUSL5N11738S20150901
Why would anyone believe any government announcement when the only truth is that you will be told a lie?
‘If only our bureaucrats… could see that their rulings have knock-on effects.’ The bureaucrats in question would include the Gaeltacht arm of DAHG who have an office near Spiddal. It would be fair to say that these have gone native and would be very much in favour of giving as much assistance as possible. (They have drawn up a 20 year, or 15 year, language plan which Flann would surely find of interest.) I suppose the bureaucrats who make the real decisions are thoes in Finance and in Public Expenditure. I notice David mentions the village of Roundstone in passing.… Read more »
The narrative here is that good ol Aer Arann are being shafted by bureaucracy, that some pencil pusher in Dublin has decided to save a few quid by giving the PSO tender to the better value option of a helicopter company – even if they are not properly equipped to do the job. Ordinarily, i would lap it up, and think.. ah typical.. If it were not for the fact that the person who brought this issue to the attention of the national media was the owner of “Aer Arann Islands” (the company who have operated the services for the… Read more »
http://www.zerohedge.com/news/2015-09-04/record-94-million-americans-not-labor-force-participation-rate-lowest-1977
Meanwhile the great recession deapens as the US unemployment rate is manipulated from an actual 23% down to the 5% range by not counting those Americans who no longer receive benefits.
Islanders together with all rural folk will be better off with local production of food and shelter than many others.
http://www.zerohedge.com/news/2015-09-04/record-94-million-americans-not-labor-force-participation-rate-lowest-1977
Meanwhile the great recession deepens as the US unemployment rate is manipulated from an actual 23% down to the 5% range by not counting those Americans who no longer receive benefits.
Islanders together with all rural folk will be better off with local production of food and shelter than many others. The middle class tourists will have trouble meeting their bills, never mind discretionary income to go and be a tourist and gawk at the natives.
‘If only our bureaucrats who make these decisions could see that their rulings have knock-on effects which are impossible to quantify, and irreversible.’
This observation is equally applicable to central banking and the ponzi money system. Except for one thing. Those pulling the strings behind the scenes know exactly what they are doing, unlike the bureaucrat.
We are being bound hand and foot economically, quite deliberately, until we are subjugated as feudal economic serfs. Then the 99.99% will be the toys of the ruling elite to do with as they please.
http://www.sovereignman.com/trends/no-inflation-friday-the-government-admits-its-own-statistics-are-phony-17417/?inf_contact_key=ec6ddfb1c3f5f49b9ebc6610fe2577804536ec4f141fef9bba403e7648f87d2c
“You’ll get laughed at in financial circles if you mention the word ‘inflation’ anymore. It’s being completely ignored… even denied.
They’re pretending like half the problem doesn’t even exist, which is seriously foolish.
Inflation is a long-term disease. Quarter by quarter the numbers may change. But over the long run it’s like a cancer, slowly eating away at your lifestyle.
It’s not a question of either/or. It’s not a debate over inflation VS. deflation. It’s only a matter of WHEN we’ll end up with BOTH. And how well you’re prepared for it.
http://awaken-longford.com/2015/09/04/lloyd-family-solution-appeal-please-consider-carefully/#comment-7868
Help out a dispossessed occupant :)
Hi,
A local called Tarlach de Blácam seems to have the following opinion;
He said; “people had been taken aback at the decision and he believed that a helicopter service was simply not viable. “A helicopter service simply won’t work, not with the weather conditions we get here in the winter. What they want is to offer us is a ‘Mickey Mouse’ service and when that is proven not to work, and then pull it completely. It’s obvious they want to kill the service,” he added”
http://flyinginireland.com/2015/09/how-did-it-come-about-that-aer-arann-islands-lost-the-contract-to-serve-the-aran-islands/
Michaelcoughlan It’s an absolute disgrace according to Eamonn O’Cuiv. The Aran Islands are unique and an attack from “that crowd above in Dublin” is an attack on our cultural heritage. The Aran Islanders deserve nothing less than hourly flights by Gulfstream V Lear jets to every major European hub. A helicopter might be good enough to fly oligarchs into Davos or St. Moritz but the plain people of the West of Ireland deserve better.If it wasn’t for those feckers in Dublin we’d have our own LUAS service into Salthill by now. That West Brit Dublin crowd will be trying to… Read more »
I’m not seeing a whole load of decent facts in this story. Locals afraid to use a helicopter–that argument is a load of old toss. Firstly I don’t believe it; they are happy with an old tiny plane, but afraid of a chopper! Secondly, why should the hard hit taxpayers have to pay an extra subsidy because they prefer the plane. The fact that people would prefer a plane ride to Connemara rather than a chopper ride Galway doesn’t make much sense. As there are a far greater range of services available in Galway, that should make it more attractive… Read more »
Bernie Sanders wants the Glass–Steagall Act
The change from planes to helicopters will have a real detrimental and immediate impact on job creation and the sustainable future of the Aran Islands. We have €4.25 million to €5.75 million of investment planned for the Aran Islands from 2015 to 2020. This will create up to 11 (and potentially more) year round full time private sector jobs. To put this in perspective this would equate in real terms to creating 11,000 jobs in Dublin. Yes that is correct the same impact as creating 11,000 new jobs in Dublin; that is the equivalent effect this will have on the… Read more »
DB4545 You are absolutely correct in your comments and they are real businesses well within the capacity of the Island infrastructure. Islay is a good example but it has a different geology and geography and is about 12 ½ times the size of the combined Aran Islands, Gigha is more comparable. Irish whiskey is in an optimistic growth phase but its not the right fit for the islands. The solution is often to found within the problem if the problem is viewed from a different perspective. The issue here is the air link and its impact on the Aran Islands.… Read more »